Accomodato, blank, alla badalucchese: dried cod is one of the regional gastronomic highpoints

The aroma (speaking of a scent would be a bit too much), unmistakable and intense, spreads in the caruggi of Genoa, along Via Pia and in the Savona harbour, in the centre of Imperia or La Spezia. The big dry codfishes, which have certainly seemed scary and looked like rather monstrous creatures to the eyes of all generations of children, peep out from the shops, spreading the odour and reminding us, like the falling leaves, that now it is late autumn. It is time to enliven the kitchen and the climate with a dish of boiled or accomodato stockfish.

Ingredients: 1 kilo stockfish, 100 grams green olives, 20 grams capers, 2 salted anchovies, 1 kilo potatoes, 1 clove of garlic, parsley to taste, 2 mature tomatoes, 1 glass of white wine, 1 onion, 1 stem of celery, salt and extra virgin olive oil.

Preparation. Scald the stockfish for some minutes to remove the skin and bone it. Prepare a mince on a base of onion and celery and brown it, add chopped capers, half of the olives, salted anchovies, garlic and parsley. When it is all browned add the stockfish and the remaining olives. Douse in white wine, add the tomatoes and the potatoes cut into pieces. Salt, douse with some warm water and cook until the potatoes are soft.